Although I was returning to the country
of my birth, once I boarded the plane at Auckland airport, every
place I saw in the next three weeks was new to me. My flights went
through Sydney and Los Angeles on the way to Phoenix, where my
brother was getting married. Although flying does not give a person a
great sense of a place – part of the reason I prefer to avoid it
whenever possible – I was surrounded by new opportunities for
exploration despite the fact that I was “going home.” As far as
the flights are concerned, I'll avoid the details and say it was a
long but smooth journey, largely thanks to the fantastic in-flight
entertainment offered by Qantas airlines. It also didn't hurt that I had an empty seat next to me for the 15-hour odyssey between Sydney and Los Angeles.
My individual travels have taken me
around Western Europe, Scandinavia, and now New Zealand. As a child,
my family travelled by car around large parts of North America, but
the southwestern United States have always eluded me. As I flew into
Phoenix, enjoying a brief flight after surviving the long haul from
Sydney, I looked out the window to see a mountainous desert. The
desert I had expected – the mountains were a surprise. Just as I
might have on a family trip in days gone by, I asked my dad about
Arizona's bumpy landscape. He replied that there are mountains everywhere in the West, and that it's almost unfair how much scenic beauty there
is in this part of the country as compared to the East. (Dad's from
Ohio, where bends in the road are a shock.)
I obviously wanted to spend time with
my family while in Arizona, and fortunately they shared my interest
in exploring this unique part of the country. After a
successful wedding without major breakdowns and with plenty of
happiness, my parents and I made the trip out of the sauna-hot
Sonoran Desert up to the Grand Canyon. Along the way, the elevation
increased by almost 6000 feet (1800 meters), taking me higher than
the top of Avalanche Peak in Arthur's Pass.
Needless to say, the landscape changed dramatically as we climbed.
Leaving Phoenix seemed to take longer
than it should. My family is from the more densely settled eastern
part of North America. From what I've heard about Los Angeles,
Phoenix is not the most extreme
example of urban sprawl – but from what I saw there, it can't be
far off. We are also accustomed to cold winters, and only hear of
Arizona as a place where people go to avoid them. So watching miles
of hot, scrubby, saguaro-covered desert pass by the car windows was a
tiring process. We had begun to wonder about the merits of scenic
routes when the climb began in earnest. Route 89 climbs 2500 feet in
four miles up Yarnell Hill. In my home state of Massachusetts, that's
two-thirds of the elevation of the state's highest mountain. In
Arizona, it's a bump. Our doubts about scenic routes had evaporated.
Once safely out of
the heat, we took a lunch break in Prescott. While still very dry
and dusty, Prescott has more trees and thus, more shade. We had
already done more than half of the climb up to the elevation of the
Grand Canyon, and although shorts and t-shirts were still comfortable
in the sun, the wind could make things very chilly.
When we left
Prescott, we climbed through the mountains to Jerome, a small mining
town built onto a cliffside. In many ways, it reminded me of Cazorla,Spain – the streets were steep
and always ended in hairpin turns. Indeed, the sign announcing Jerome
Town Limits was on a hairpin itself, making it appear as though the
town was somewhere in midair. We could only stay for long enough to
take a few photos, as we had a dinner date with my aunt and uncle,
who had gone up to Sedona after the wedding.
Almost every one of
my family members who came to Arizona for the wedding took advantage
of being there to do some extra travelling, which made for a lot of
talk about places to visit. Even though we had talked about Sedona, I somehow
failed to realize that it was home to Red Rock State Park. The
drive into Sedona was one of the biggest surprises of the trip for me
– I had been falling asleep in the front seat when I started
noticing giant sandstone formations, which held my attention for as
long as we were there. Although the town itself has built its economy
on tourism, I can't blame them. I like going “off the
beaten track” when it comes to travelling, but the Red Rocks are one
very good reason why the beaten track goes where it does.
The variety of the
natural landscape and climate had already impressed me more than I
had imagined it would, and we hadn't even reached the Grand Canyon
yet.
Looking back on Phoenix from Piestawa Peak. |
Piestawa Peak, looking away from Phoenix. |
Jerome, AZ. |
Red Rocks in Sedona. |
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