Splitting the Seasons

I've been in Arizona for the past few weeks, celebrating my brother's wedding and visiting with family. Needless to say, the shift from early winter in the Southern Alps to early summer in the Sonoran desert proved challenging, not least as far as packing is concerned. I am soon to return to New Zealand, and now it looks as though the shift back will be just as extreme. Here's footage from Arthur's Pass earlier this week, which I watched while sweating in 40°C heat.

Pancakes! As You've Never Seen Them Before

Hitchhiking had served me well on the journey up to Nelson, but I decided to take the bus on the return. I had my reasons for returning to Arthur's Pass somewhat early, and the bus followed a different route than the one I had taken up. And as I've learned in this country (especially on the South Island), every route is a scenic one.

We made our first stop in Murchison, and from there entered the Buller gorge. As we drove, we would occasionally stop for traffic signals, which seemed odd as there were no possible turns. Then it became apparent that the signals were controlling traffic along stretches of single-lane road, particularly at blind curves along the cliff base. I've grown accustomed to seeing single-lane bridges on the South Island, but this was something else again.

After passing through the mountains, we reached Westport and began heading down the west coast. The road from Haast to Greymouth rarely comes close to the Tasman Sea, so I was expecting something similar from the stretch north of Greymouth. Instead, I was rewarded with a stunning piece of highway. The road came so close to the water that I was thankful I was in a vehicle driven by a professional. We winded and twisted our way along the water until we reached Punakaiki, where we stopped for a second break.

Punakaiki, like Franz Josef and Fox, is a town built on the success of a single tourist attraction - the pancake rocks. These are limestone formations along the water that have eroded into a variety of aesthetically pleasing shapes, and simultaneously formed blow holes that channel the force of waves straight up into the air. I had heard of this spot, but never planned on going out of my way to see it. Now I'm glad I put it in my way. I'll let the photos below explain why.

Before long I was back in Greymouth, hopping on the bus back to Arthur's Pass. For a three-day weekend, I was quite happy with what I had managed to achieve.

Kiss Me, Hardy!

Since my arrival in New Zealand, the city of Nelson has been on the periphery of my plans. In talking with both Kiwis and travellers, the general opinion of the place was positive, but no one ever seemed able to give me a specific reason to go there. Now that I've been there myself, I can see that it is difficult to describe Nelson in a few words. But I'll try anyway.

One irrefutable fact about Nelson is that it is one of the sunniest places in New Zealand. In a country known for being able to produce four seasons in one day, anywhere with consistently good weather is a rarity. I've heard that last year Nelson's sunny day count came second in the country to that of Whakatane, on the North Island, but Nelson has a reputation beyond what statistics can prove.

Describing the character of any city is a challenge, but this one is particularly tricky. It is the center of a large agricultural region, and so draws in a horde of working holidaymakers during harvests. Abel Tasman National Park is not far away, so the city also draws in its share of outdoors enthusiasts. But the city itself has a vibrant center with an alternative streak, more befitting an American college town than of the center of one of New Zealand's most productive agricultural areas. And yet Nelson does not have a major university, although it does have one of the two main campuses of the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology. More than anywhere else I've been in New Zealand, Nelson manages to balance elements of several city types without exclusively being any of them.

My visit was brief, but I did manage to see the geographical center of the country. Being previously aware that Nelson has a sizable Italian population, I also kept my eyes open for a decent pizza joint. What do you know, I found one.

Stefano's Margherita. Delicious and reasonably priced.

In one of Nelson's many parks.

Looking south from the center of New Zealand.

Looking west over the city.

The center.