Pintxos and Pigs

Most people who know me are aware that I rarely tire of the subject of food, whether eating or discussing it (although preferably more of the former). Much like Roger Ebert does with movies, I can find something good in almost anything I eat - maybe not "two thumbs up!" worth, but something enjoyable nonetheless. So of course, one of Spain's primary attractions for me was the promise of its food. And it has not let me down.

Many areas I've visited have one or two dishes for which they are primarily known, at least to my knowledge: haggis in Scotland, schnitzel in Germany, waffles in Belgium, tagine and couscous in Morocco, pasta and pizza in Italy, etc. If you had to name a similar dish for Spain, it would probably be paella. Essentially a shellfish stirfry over yellow rice, paella is known as the Spanish national dish. But somebody clearly forgot to tell Riojans.

Spain's cuisine is as unique as each of its autonomous communities. I suppose this is true for every country I mentioned above, but it has been most glaringly obvious to me here. The one restaurant I have seen advertising its paella was undoubtedly a tourist trap, of which there are precious few in Logroño. Indeed, Logroño doesn't seem to have many sit-down restaurants of any kind. Instead, it is packed with bar/cafés - which almost always have both names on them - and tapas bars. But even tapas, another type of dining typically associated with this country, are not called that here. Because of La Rioja's proximity to the Basque region, Riojan tapas are called by their Basque name "pintxos", which is pronounced pinchos (and occasionally spelled that way). Most pintxo bars only offer one or two food items to simplify their menu and distinguish themselves from similar institutions.

Perhaps the most universal element of Spanish cuisine that I've seen is jamón serrano, which is the large, cured legs of ham that can be found in almost any bar or restaurant. I have seen these everywhere I've been in Spain, and I would be willing to bet that pig is the most consumed animal in this country, although meat is generally very popular. At the small supermarket near my apartment, one can purchase a full rabbit (eyes included, fur and innards removed) or a pig's head. It is quite a reality check to be strolling through your grocery store and see a smiling little pig's face looking up at you from the meat counter.  

At the risk of scaring away vegetarian readers and boring the rest, I'll leave you to enjoy the above picture of jamón serrano legs for sale in Barcelona. And let me also add that none of the best things I've eaten here have included red meat. But there will be more - much more - on gastronomic issues later.